What you can tell about a Tudor by his clothes

Since most common citizens couldn’t read, kings had to find different ways to convey their wealth, lineage, rank, religion, nationality, and anything else you wanted to impress about your self.

A king had to show people his wealth and prestige, most commonly in his wardrobe. He was expected to dress extravagantly—and to supply his courtiers with the means to do so also, since their glory reflected on him and increased his own glorious image. It was especially important to impress foreign dignitaries, and to be impressive in front of the common citizens. 

(at right, Elizabeth on procession: she knew she had to learn to dress luxuriously to impress her people as queen)

Royal employees were recognized by their uniforms, or liveries.  Every noble family had their own coat of arms passed on through generations. Each family dressed their employees in their family colors (attire known as livery). Henry VIII’s Tudor liveries were green and white.

Individuals of importance selected a personal badge as well, such as Henry’s first wife Katherine of Aragon (image below right). She chose the pomegranate, a Spanish fruit to remind her of her homeland, and because it was a symbol of fertility and for the resurrection. Badges adorned possessions, decorations, and servants, and could be combined with a spouse's upon marriage. As you would expect, this particular practice caused Henry a bit of trouble.

In an age when heretical books could get you burned at the stake, people found other, subtler, ways to express their religion. Elizabeth wore black or otherwise simple attire before her ascension to show she was favorable to the reformed religion. This set her up as the figure-head of the anti-Catholic, anti-Mary party, which was headed by her sister who dressed in traditional, Catholic, & expensive style. (Upon her ascension to queenship however, Elizabeth began her life-long indulgence in extravagant dress, as Tudor monarchs were required to do.)

Kings had to dress richly, give lavishly, and perform grandly so that everyone knew how rich and powerful they were. No one questioned spending lavishly for the king to show off, which is a sign of how accepted it was. Even when the court’s metaphoric belt was tightened, even when the country was financing a war, even as the royal treasury emptied later in Henry’s reign.

It could also have just been a sign of how reluctant people were to speak against a vain and mercurial king.

Credits: David Starkey